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A jabiru stork standing on driftwood beside a forest-lined river in the Rupununi

Kanuku Mountains: Practical Travel Guide

Where to stay for the Kanukus, what to bring on the trail, village etiquette and sample plans from Lethem.

Where to base yourself

Lethem

Small hotels with air conditioning and restaurants, the easy base for day trips to the falls.

Maipaima Eco-Lodge, Nappi

Raised timber cabins in the forest at the mountain foot, run by the village, with simple meals and guides. Basic facilities and no phone signal.

Saddle Mountain Ranch, Shulinab

A family ranch on the south side of the range, with riding, savannah wildlife and walks into the hills.

Forest and river camps

Hammock camps at Jordan Falls and along the Rupununi tributaries for trekking and boat parties.

Food & drink

Village lodges cook what is to hand: farine, cassava bread, fresh or smoked fish, game where permitted, beans and rice. On day trips from Lethem, take your own food and water — there is nothing to buy at the falls. Lethem itself has Brazilian-style grills and bakeries for stocking up.

Tips: saving money and staying safe

  • Carry at least two litres of water per person on any hike; the humidity is draining.
  • Wear long trousers and closed shoes: trails are rooty, and there are ticks, chiggers and biting flies.
  • Bring binoculars — canopy wildlife is high and far.
  • Pay the village entry and guide fees in cash and ask for a receipt from the tourism committee.
  • Take malaria precautions and sleep under a net.
  • Leave waterfalls as you found them: carry out all rubbish, including food waste.

Sample plans

Half a day from Lethem

  • Morning taxi to Moco Moco; climb the steps and swim.
  • Lunch back in Lethem, or continue to Kumu Falls for a picnic.

Two nights at Nappi

  • Day 1: 4x4 to Nappi; meet the balata carvers; afternoon forest walk from Maipaima.
  • Day 2: full-day hike to Jordan Falls, or to a harpy nest if one is active.
  • Day 3: dawn birding; return to Lethem for a flight.

Where to stay: Kanuku Mountains

Maipaima Eco-Lodge (Nappi)

A village-run forest lodge at the foot of the western Kanukus, the base for Jordan Falls. Booked through the Nappi community or Visit Rupununi.

Not sold on Trip.com: book direct or through a local operator. The button opens the Trip.com search for the nearest town it lists.

Saddle Mountain Ranch (Shulinab)

A family ranch below the southern Kanukus with riding and walks. Booked directly.

Not sold on Trip.com: book direct or through a local operator. The button opens the Trip.com search for the nearest town it lists.

Hotels and guesthouses in Lethem

Small hotels and guesthouses in town for day trips; the button searches Trip.com for Lethem.

Not sold on Trip.com: book direct or through a local operator. The button opens the Trip.com search for the nearest town it lists.

Good to know

Kanuku Mountains: FAQs

Frequently asked questions

Is it worth adding the Kanukus to a Rupununi trip?

Yes, if you have a spare day or two around Lethem. The change from savannah to mountain forest is striking, and the villages receive very few visitors.

What is balata?

A rubbery latex tapped from a forest tree. It was once exported for golf balls and cable insulation; Nappi’s craftsmen now model it into animals and village scenes.

Are there jaguars?

The range holds a healthy population, and tracks are often seen. Sightings are rare.

Plan your Guyana trip

Book Kanukus tours

See what can be booked online for Kanuku Mountains and from Georgetown, with live prices on GetYourGuide.