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A family of giant otters at the water’s edge among floating plants

Wildlife, birding and fishing in Guyana

The “giants” of South America, more than 800 bird species and some of the continent’s least-fished rivers — and an honest idea of your chances.

Guyana’s forests are part of the Guiana Shield, one of the largest blocks of intact tropical forest left on Earth. Low human numbers and difficult access have kept wildlife populations healthy, and several lodges exist precisely because of particular animals. But this is rainforest, not open plain: animals are seen by patience, early starts and good local guides, not in herds from a vehicle. Nothing on this page is guaranteed.

The animals people come for

SpeciesBest placesWhenRealistic chances
Giant otterKaranambu, Rewa, the Rupununi River; IwokramaAll year; easier when rivers are low (roughly September–April)Good on a stay of two or three nights
Giant anteaterThe north Rupununi savannah around KaranambuAll year, at dawnGood with local trackers
JaguarThe road through Iwokrama; Rupununi riverbanksDry seasons, dawn and duskPossible, never promised — many visitors miss it
Black caimanYupukari (Caiman House), Karanambu, IwokramaAll year, by nightVery good
ArapaimaRewa, the ponds and oxbows of the RupununiDry season, when fish are concentratedGood at Rewa; seen surfacing to breathe
Harpy eagleKanuku Mountains, Surama, Iwokrama, RewaDepends on an active nestGood when a nest is in use; otherwise unlikely
Guianan cock-of-the-rockKaieteur; Wowetta and the forest near Atta and SuramaLeks are most active early in the yearGood at known leks
Sea turtles (four species)Shell BeachAbout March–AugustGood in peak months
Hoatzin (the national bird)Mahaica and Abary rivers, the CanjeAll year, early morningVery good
West Indian manateeGeorgetown’s Botanical Gardens and National Park pondsAll yearNear certain
A family of giant otters at the water’s edge among floating plants
Giant otters live in family groups and are surprisingly noisy.

Wildlife calendar

Seasons in Guyana are set by rain, not temperature. Dates shift from year to year, so read these as tendencies.

MonthsConditionsGood for
JanuaryShort rains ending on the coast; Rupununi mostly dryCock-of-the-rock leks, forest birding between showers
February–AprilMain dry seasonJaguar chances on the Iwokrama road, giant otters, arapaima, the first turtles at Shell Beach from about March
May–AugustLong rains; rivers high, savannah floodedKaieteur in full flood, turtle nesting, waterbirds on the flooded Rupununi; mammals are harder to find
September–NovemberSecond dry season; rivers fallingOften the best all-round window: otters, caiman, fishing, river beaches, easy trails
DecemberShort rains begin on the coast and in the forestQuieter lodges; birding still good

Birding

More than 800 species have been recorded, and birders come for the Guiana Shield specialities: Guianan cock-of-the-rock, harpy and crested eagles, capuchinbird, crimson fruitcrow, grey-winged trumpeter, and in the savannahs the sun parakeet and the red siskin, both very localised. A typical two-week birding trip covers the coast (the Botanical Gardens and the hoatzin rivers), Kaieteur, Iwokrama and Atta, Surama and the Rupununi.

  • Georgetown Botanical Gardens are a genuinely good first morning: parrots, toucans, the blood-coloured woodpecker and a long list of other species before breakfast.
  • The Iwokrama canopy walkway puts you at eye level with canopy flocks at dawn.
  • Specialist guides make an enormous difference; many of the best are from the villages themselves. Ask the lodge or operator for a bird guide specifically.
Close-up of a blue-and-yellow macaw
Macaws are a daily sight around the interior lodges.

Fishing

Guyana’s rivers hold peacock bass (called lukanani locally), payara, arowana, big catfish and the arapaima, among the largest scaled freshwater fish in the world. Sport fishing is run on a catch-and-release basis through a few community lodges — Rewa is the best known for arapaima on the fly — under agreements that limit the number of anglers each season. The season follows the low water of the dry months; dates and permits are handled by the lodge or a specialist fishing operator, and trips are booked well ahead.

Elsewhere, lodge staff will happily take guests out for a few hours with a handline for piranha or lukanani for the pot. Never fish in a village’s waters without asking.

Two arapaima, among the largest freshwater fish in the world, swimming in a tank
The arapaima is protected in Guyana; community-run catch-and-release fishing helps fund its conservation.

Watching wildlife responsibly

  • Use local guides and community lodges — the income is the reason habitats are being kept.
  • Keep your distance from otter dens, nests and nesting turtles; follow the guide’s instructions about lights and flash.
  • Do not ask for animals to be baited, handled or pursued by boat.
  • Wildlife products, including feathers and turtle shell, should not be bought.
Plan your Guyana trip

Secure the parts of Guyana you can book online

Seats on the small aircraft to Kaieteur Falls are limited and flights need a minimum number of passengers. Compare what is bookable from Georgetown, check live prices and reserve before you fly in.

Good to know

Wildlife FAQs

Frequently asked questions

Will I see a jaguar in Guyana?

Perhaps. Iwokrama has a strong reputation and some groups see one on the road at dusk, but plenty of visitors spend a week in the forest without a sighting. Go for the forest as a whole and treat a jaguar as a bonus.

Is Guyana good for a first rainforest trip?

Yes, provided you enjoy the search. Lodges are small, guides are excellent and you will rarely share a trail. If you want more dependable mammal viewing, the open savannah and rivers of the Rupununi are more reliable than deep forest.

Do I need to be a keen birder to enjoy it?

Not at all. Macaws, toucans, hoatzins and the cock-of-the-rock impress everyone, and guides adapt to the group.

Are there dangerous animals?

Snakes, caiman and stinging insects exist, and guides know how to avoid problems. The practical risks are more ordinary: sun, dehydration, insect bites and slippery trails. Follow the guide and wear closed shoes.