Where to base yourself
North Rupununi: Karanambu, Yupukari, Rewa
River lodges within a few hours of each other and of Annai. The classic circuit, and the best for otters, caiman, arapaima and birds. Rewa is the most remote and the simplest.
Lethem
Small hotels and guesthouses with air conditioning, restaurants and the only banks and well-stocked shops. Useful for a night in transit, essential at rodeo time.
South Rupununi: Dadanawa and the ranches
Working ranches and Wapishana villages on drier, emptier savannah south of the Kanukus. Fewer visitors, long drives, big skies.
Central savannah ranches
Ranch stays within an hour or so of Lethem, such as Waikin, offer riding, birding and savannah wildlife with easier access.
Food & drink
Lodge meals are home cooking served at a shared table: beef from the ranches, river fish, rice, beans, cassava bread and farine, with local fruit. Karanambu’s rum punch at sunset is a tradition. Lethem adds Brazilian flavours — grilled meat by the kilo, pão de queijo, cold beer from across the river. Try tasso, dried salted beef, and parakari, a fermented cassava drink, if offered in a village.
Tips: saving money and staying safe
- Travel with others if you can: boats and vehicles are priced per trip, so four people pay half what two do.
- Bring enough cash for the whole stay. Lethem has banks, but lodges are far from them.
- The sun is intense and shade is rare: wide hat, long sleeves, plenty of water.
- Tiny biting flies called kaboura are active by day near rivers; cover up rather than rely on repellent alone.
- Take malaria precautions and carry your yellow fever certificate, especially if crossing to Brazil.
- Villages are private land: visit with a guide, ask before taking photographs, and respect any alcohol rules.
Sample plans
Four nights
- Day 1: fly Ogle to Karanambu; boat trip for otters; lilies at dusk.
- Day 2: anteater drive at dawn; river or forest walk.
- Day 3: boat to Yupukari; village visit; night caiman research.
- Day 4: drive to Lethem; St Ignatius and the Kanuku foothills.
- Day 5: fly to Georgetown.
Seven nights
- Nights 1–2: Rock View or Surama.
- Nights 3–5: by boat to Rewa — arapaima, Awarmie Mountain, river camping.
- Nights 6–7: Karanambu.
- Day 8: fly out from Karanambu or Lethem.
Where to stay: The Rupununi Savannah
Karanambu Lodge
The original Rupununi ranch lodge: thatched cabins by the river, giant otters, anteaters and evenings at the family table. Booked directly or through an operator.
Not sold on Trip.com: book direct or through a local operator. The button opens the Trip.com search for the nearest town it lists.
Caiman House Field Station (Yupukari)
A village-run guesthouse and field station at Yupukari, home of the black caiman study.
Not sold on Trip.com: book direct or through a local operator. The button opens the Trip.com search for the nearest town it lists.
Rewa Eco-Lodge
A community eco-lodge at the meeting of the Rewa and Rupununi rivers, known for arapaima and deep forest.
Not sold on Trip.com: book direct or through a local operator. The button opens the Trip.com search for the nearest town it lists.
Dadanawa Ranch
A historic working cattle ranch in the south Rupununi with simple guest rooms.
Not sold on Trip.com: book direct or through a local operator. The button opens the Trip.com search for the nearest town it lists.
Waikin Ranch
A ranch on the central savannah within reach of Lethem, with riding and wildlife drives.
Not sold on Trip.com: book direct or through a local operator. The button opens the Trip.com search for the nearest town it lists.
Hotels and guesthouses in Lethem
Small air-conditioned hotels and guesthouses in town; the button searches Trip.com for Lethem.
Not sold on Trip.com: book direct or through a local operator. The button opens the Trip.com search for the nearest town it lists.
